Arun Rajagopal

Thursday, 7 Dec 2006: Delhi beckons January 12, 2007

Left Muscat for New Delhi on WY 845 at 3am. The flight departed an hour late due to some problems with loading baggage. Arrived New Delhi in the morning, 30 minutes after scheduled arrival, in near fog-like conditions. Completed immigration and waited in the arrival terminal for a friend who was to travel with me over the next few days. Once we met up, we got prepaid cell connections from the Airtel booth at the airport. Took a cab from the airport prepaid taxi counter, and finally discovered Smyle Inn – the budget hotel we stayed in at Chandiwalan, Main Bazaar Road, Paharganj next to New Delhi Railway Station.
The ride was bumpy, yet adventurous. Checked in, had difficulty catching up sleep, and spent the evening navigating the dingy, but hectic alleys of Paharganj.
Went exploring Connaught Circle later. Watched Casino Royale at the Rivoli. Really swanky theatre; was pretty amazed at the level of security! Ate from a Punjabi Dhaba, and went to sleep with MTV blaring in the background.

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Friday, 8 Dec 2006: Delhi Deewana January 12, 2007

Decided to explore New Delhi Railway Station which is just a few minutes walk from the hotel. Was greeted by the glorious sight of a stunning Vatva WDM2 beast lugging the Ahmedabad Rajdhani which had earlier arrived on platform 1. Felt a tremendous adrenaline rush… later got to the International Tourist Bureau to pick up the INDRAIL pass. Was advised by the helpful officer that it’s always best to buy the pass, after pre-booking all journeys. Since my journey plans weren’t clear as of then, didn’t end up buying the pass.

Later went on a 1-day package tour of New Delhi that cost around 150 Rs. Clicked my first snap since my visit to India. Visited Red Fort, India Gate, Raj Ghat, Parliament House, Qutab Minar, Bahai Lotus Temple and Iskon Temple. The sights on the road were pretty interesting. Gave an impression of Delhi as a city with a lot of buzz, even thought it was quite unclean. Got back late in the evening. Felt ill the entire day, as I was coming down with a terrible cold and fever.

Apparently a cold wave was on in Delhi, with the mercury dipping down to 6.5 degree Celsius, the coldest day that season. I had gone to Delhi quite unprepared without appropriate winter wear for this chilly weather, and it was no surprise that I fell ill. Crashed into bed after hogging tabs.

And oh yes, let me describe my ‘Vicks trick’, that came in handy during my Delhi sojourn. I always kept dabbing Vicks ointment around my nostrils, during my bout with cold. Gradually I realised that it kept me immune from the stench in streets of Delhi, especially in Paharganj. The Vicks stayed with me, even after the cold went away. Thus, I basked in a blissful ‘vicks generated aura’ wherever I went.

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Saturday, 9 Dec 2006: Down in Delhi January 12, 2007

Missed the sightseeing trip to Agra to catch the Taj and Agra fort. Spent the better part of the day fighting a lonesome battle against cold and fever. Managed to venture out to the IGIA (Indira Gandhi International Airport) to speak to the Airtel guys regarding my prepaid connection which they hadn’t activated as of then. Took an auto rickshaw to the airport from New Delhi Railway Station, asked the driver to wait for me, while I promised to return within 5 minutes. Came back to discover that he left without taking his fare from me. Watched him scoot away with another passenger, as I yelled in my frail voice for him to come back. Felt quite amused! The Airtel connection kicked itself to life in the afternoon. And then broke into cold sweat when I discovered that my ATM card from India wasn’t working! Thanked God for my NBO Card, which I promptly used to take some cash. You bet they charged me crazy for that. 😦
Took a much anticipated joy ride on the Delhi Metro from one end to the other in the evening. Enjoyed it tremendously… hats off to Delhi for coming up with such a marvellous transit system. Hit Connaught Place in the evening, dined at Berco’s, a swanky Chinese restaurant. Nothing better than Tom Yum soup for a soul down with the flu!

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Sunday, 10 Dec 2006: Adieu to Delhi January 12, 2007

Spent the better part of the day exploring Connaught Place. Was among the first customers at McDonalds in the morning. Three cheers to the veggie burger. Went to New Delhi Railway Station to get tickets for our journey to Varanasi the next day. Was told that all trains were running full and was asked to come back three hours before the departure of a particular super fast train we wanted to catch. Headed to Connaught Place which had become our regular jaunt by then. Ate at TGI’s late afternoon. I gulped down a Mojito, while my friend devoured pasta and beer. Took the metro to Chanakyapuri and then had a round in a cycle rickshaw. Came back to New Delhi Rly Station, braved the long queues, the unbearable heat and put on a brave front as we were told there were no tickets available in Sleeper or AC classes on our train. Was recommended to see if Delhi Station had tickets. Took the metro to Delhi, stood in the long queue only to be told there were no seats. Was finally approached by a tout, who got us tickets on the Brahmaputra Mail to Mughalsarai which is 16 odd kilometres from Varanasi. Bought them with some trepidation, as I was kinda worried if they were bogus. Also felt quite annoyed about this criminal practice where railway officials told passengers that there were no tickets, but sold them to touts. Headed back to New Delhi by metro rail, got our baggage and then headed back to Delhi Station in an autorickshaw. Saw numerous marriage processions on the road (baarat). Apparently it was the most auspicious day in the Hindu calendar to get married. And then it rained! Ran into a quite swanky eatery at Delhi station, couldn’t help laughing out aloud hearing another of those funny radiomirchi ads. Tucked into a sombre plate of curd rice…

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Wednesday, 13 Dec 2006: Crossing India’s heartland January 12, 2007

The 1482km ride on the Ratnagiri Superfast was interesting. Was quite hassled by a drunk co-passenger who was mad at me for exchanging my berth with a German traveller. He had asked me for the same berth, but I had absent-mindedly told him no. The German dude took out his guitar and strummed on as a crowd of curious onlookers gathered around him. Indulged in idle chit-chat with Rajneesh Kumar, a medical representative working in Allahabad, and the son of a railway guard. Found pleasure in swapping tales about raunchy SMS forwards. A new day began as the double WDM2 headed train ran from North India to Central and then Western India, as I soaked in the landscapes outside. I settled into John Grisham’s first work of non-fiction – An Innocent Man – didn’t enjoy it much. Bought a joke book from Itarsi. Laughed to myself frequently and had fellow passengers wondering what had gone wrong with me. Later, had fun explaining how flash-memory based mp3 players worked to a group of street urchins who had boarded the train in the evening. We stopped at Allahabad, Satna, Jabalpur, Itarsi, Bhusaval, Jalgaon, Manmad, Nasik Road, Igatpuri and Kalyan before reaching Lokmanya Tilak Terminus (LTT) around 11pm, after a 26 hour journey. Caught an auto rickshaw from LTT, spent some time looking for rooms, apparently most hotels were full. Finally checked into Hotel Plaza at Sion, quite expensive for its modest amenities.

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Tuesday, 12 Dec 2006: A date with the Gods in Varanasi January 12, 2007

Woke up early to begin our tour of Varanasi aka Banaras aka Kashi (which means luminous), the oldest continuously inhabited city on Earth, supposedly founded by the Hindu deity Shiva. Navigated the narrow and winding alleys to get to the Ghats. Jostled for space with the cows. The atmosphere was very relaxing, soothing, almost felt like being surrounded by the Gods. Went to the Ghats, rented a boat for 600 Rs for a ride on the holy Ganges along the ghats. The atmosphere was filled with the scent of holy fragrance, religious chants and a breezy wind. Went to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, was amazed by its gold covered roof. As I repeated the mantras told by the priests and made an offering, I felt like on top of the world.

The boat ride was interesting. Was regaled by tales of Varanasi and the Ghats by the boatman. There is a ghat in Varanasi called Narada Ghat, where only buffaloes bathe. It seems that any couple who bathes together in that Ghat will never know peace for the rest of their lives. Even watched a bloated dead body float by, a very scary feeling. A passing boatman commented – Sab ka gathi yahi hoga (this is the fate that awaits everyone). Loved the shudh hindi / Bhojpuri dialect of people in Varanasi. Ate breakfast from a Kerala restaurant in Varanasi which has been there for over 50 years!

Visited Banaras Hindu University, famous temples in Varanasi such as Durga and Birla Temples before setting out to Sarnath where Buddha preached his first sermon. Was awed by the Dhamek Stupa, a stunning monument paying tribute to Buddhism. Visited the Japanese temple and learnt how to say Budham Saranam Gachami… in Japanese! Fed carrots to the deer at Sarnath Deer Park. Did some rail-fanning in Varanasi Railway Station, even caught some junkies sniffing glue at the outskirts of the platforms. Didn’t hang around a lot… the guys were intimidating. Got back to the Hotel, indulged in a lavish traditional Kerala Ayurvedic massage, felt like ready to take over the world. Got on the Ratnagiri Superfast at 8.45pm. Mumbai beckoned.

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Thursday, 14 Dec 2006: Mumbai madness, Konkan respite January 12, 2007

Set out from the hotel to Mumbai CST (Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus, the erstwhile Victoria Terminus) on a ubiquitous Mumbai local train to see if I could get the IndRail pass finally. Was the first person at CST when the International Tourist Bureau counter opened. They didn’t have the pass for the number of days I wanted. Was asked to go Churchgate Station. Took a bus ride to Churchgate, clicked a few snaps of the BMC / BEST double decker buses on my way. Got there only to find that they didn’t have any IndRail pass.

Finally got a 3AC ticket on the 6345 Lokmanya Tilak Terminus – Trivandrum Netravathi Express for the same day to Kollam Junction, Kerala. Was told by the queer lady who wore two spectacles at the ticket counter that I wouldn’t make it on time for the train that was departing at 11.40am. Decided to cover Churchgate – CST – Sion – LTT in trains, and thus avoid the rush hour on the roads. Thus began a mad dash, hopping from local train to local train, before reaching LTT around 20 minutes before departure. Phew! The rides were exciting… masses of people flowing in and out of trains that went like arrows helter skelter. The crowds were pretty ok, though I desisted from boarding trains that were jam packed. Felt goose bumps when I thought these very trains – the lifelines of Mumbai – where hit by the 2006 bomb blasts.

Netravathi Express took off on time, with an Erode WDM2 at the helm. Kollam was 1734km and 30 hours away. Had to take snaps of two kids who ran alongside my coach on a parallel track, they so desperately wanted me to click them. The ride was spectacular, with fascinating landscapes and superb curves. Konkan Railway is an unbelievable experience with its lush greenery, long tunnels, imposing mountains, expansive water bodies. You can see quiet villages from the train.

The train halted at Panvel, Chiplun, Ratnagiri, Madgaon, Canacona, Karwar, Bhatkal, Udupi and Kankanadi before reaching Kasaragod in Kerala next day, early morning. Went berserk with the camera taking snaps, even took a video of the Konkan Jana Shatabdi, one of the fastest trains in Konkan Railway, whiz by. All said, Konkan is a must-see for every rail-fan. See it to believe it. Experience it to enjoy it!

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Friday, 15 Dec 2006: An encounter with Bharathapuzha January 12, 2007

Nethravathi Express entered Kerala early morning. Took some good snaps of the famous Bharathapuzha River in Kerala. Listened to a fellow passenger talk about how beautiful the river was back in the years and its sad condition now. It appears that sand mining has taken the gloss off this beautiful river. He was helpful in showing me good spots to take snaps of along the way. I particularly loved this station called Vallathol Nagar which is close to Shoranur. It is an ideal location for rail photography with its curvaceous platforms. A lanky gentleman sat next to me in the coach. Came to know later that he was Tom Joseph, the captain of India’s National Volleyball team. Nethravathi buzzed through North Kerala like a bullet, before reaching Ernakulam in the afternoon, and then ran through scenic Alleppey and one of my favourite scenic spots – Thakazhi before reaching Kollam in the evening. My camera didn’t remain idle.

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Saturday, 16 Dec 2006: Rail-fanning in Cochin January 12, 2007

 Woke up early morning to catch the 4.20am Kollam – Ernakulam Passenger to Cochin. Pretty uneventful ride. Went to my bank to get my ATM card issue sorted out. Took a boat ride along the Marine Drive towards the ship yard and back. Sat down with a palmist at the Marine Drive just for the heck of it. She reeled off my past with such accuracy that I soon vanished from the scene. But, highly recommended, it’s not every day that you have a total stranger narrate the worst about you for 100 Rs! Had lunch at Bimbees, my favourite restaurant at Cochin. Got a 3AC ticket for Kollam on the 2511 Gorakhpur – Trivandrum Raptisagar Express, which has now taken the avatar of a super fast. Clicked some snaps of engines at Ernakulam Junction. Ran into a lil pup who had its leg ran over by a passing engine. A Railway Mail Service (RMS) worker picked up the howling animal from the bushes and gave it some water. The thankful beast was last seen tagging along with his new friend. Hated the journey, the coach had a stench about it, and I watched a rat hop around. The bright point in this trip was meeting a lovely IIT professor with an incredible sense of humour.

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